A thick morning fog was sitting on the mountaintops. In the valleys and hollers we were under the fog.

When Mom and I visited family friends in North Carolina, back in October, we took the time to go to the nearby North Carolina Minerals museum, located at milepost 331 of the Blue Ridge Parkway, just outside of Spruce Pine, on Rte. 226. The morning fog was dangerously thick. In addition to presenting the rich mining history of the area (everything from gold and copper to the porcelain in your toilet and quartz), militia passed through the gap on September 28 or 29th, 1780, on the Overmountain Victory Trail as they headed towards their confrontation with British Loyalists at King’s Mountain. Worried that being at the gap wasn’t enough, we followed part of the trail (in reverse) along Rte 19E as we headed toward Johnson City.

Victoriously reclaiming the trophy

The breakdown: She got 46 stamps total, 40 individual stamps (when you eliminate multiples, like the trails), of which 37 qualified (she didn’t get them last year), of which 20 were unique to her. How’s that for stats (46/40/37/20)?  The strikeouts are ones she got last year; the blue text are ones that somebody else also got.

1. Fossil Butte NM, Kemmerer, WY — Apr 2, 2009.
2. California NHT, Rocky Mountain Region — Apr 2, 2009.
3. Oregon NHT, Rocky Mountain Region — Apr 2, 2009.
4. Oregon NHT, Rocky Mountain Region — Apr 6, 2009.
5. Oregon NHT, Rocky Mountain Region — Apr 7, 2009.
6. California NHT, Rocky Mountain Region — Apr 6, 2009.
7. California NHT, Rocky Mountain Region — Apr 7, 2009.

8. Pony Express NHT, Rocky Mountain Region — Apr 6, 2009.
9. Pony Express NHT, Rocky Mountain Region — Apr 7, 2009.
10. Mormon Pioneer NHT, Rocky Mountain Region — Apr 6, 2009.
11. Mormon Pioneer NHT, Rocky Mountain Region — Apr 7, 2009.
12. Western Historic Trails Center, Council Bluffs, IA — Apr 7, 2009.
13. Oregon NHT, Council Bluffs, IA — Apr 7, 2009.
14. Mormon Pioneer NHT (IL, IA, NE, WY, UT), Midwest Region — Apr 7, 2009.
15. California NHT,  Midwest Region — Apr 7, 2009.
16. Lewis & Clark NHT, Iowa — Apr 7, 2009.
17. Cedar Creek & Belle Grove NHP, Shenandoah Valley, VA — May 10, 2009.
18. Booker T. Washington NM, Hardy, VA — Jul 3, 2009.
19-34. 16 stamps from the National Mall — Jul 9, 2009.
35. Gettysburg NMP, Gettysburg, PA — Jul 15, 2009.
36. Valley Forge NHP, Valley Forge, PA — Oct 5, 2009.
37. Schuylkill River NHA, Valley Forge, PA — Oct 05, 2009.
38. Carl Sandburg Home NHS, Flat Rock, NC — Oct 22, 2009.
39. Blue Ridge Parkway, Musuem of NC Minerals — Oct 23, 2009.
40. Overmountain Victory Trail, Blue Ridge Parkway — Oct 23, 2009.
41. Andrew Johnson NHS, Greeneville, TN — Oct 23, 2009.
42. Andrew Johnson NHS, Tailor Shop — Oct 23, 2009.
43. Andrew Johnson NHS, Nat’l Cemetery — Oct 23, 2009.
44. Wheeling NHA, Wheeling, WV — Nov 24, 2009.
45. William Howard Taft NHS, Cincinnati, OH — Nov 25, 2009.
46. Friendship Hill NHS, New Geneva, PA — Nov 28, 2009.

I think I was the runner-up, with 34 total stamps, 28 individual, 22 qualified, 6 were unique (34/28/22/6).

Update: With a minimum order of $12.50, that’s fine for 4 years, but I think we’d be wise to have someone else do the yearly updates from now on.

1. California Nat’l Historic Trail (Apr. 2, Apr. 6. Apr. 7). Got this stamp in 2008.
2. Oregon Nat’l Historic Trail (Apr. 2, Apr. 6, Apr. 7). Same.
3. Pony Express Nat’l Historic Trail (Apr. 6, Apr. 7). Again.
4. Mormon Pioneer Nat’l Historic Trail (Apr. 6, Apr. 7). More.
5. Fossil Butte National Monument (Apr. 2). Ditto.
6. Western Historic Trails Center, Council Bluffs, IA (Apr. 7)
7. California Nat’l Historic Trail (Apr. 7).
8. Oregon Nat’l Historic Trail, Council Bluffs, IA (Apr. 7)
9. Mormon Pioneer Nat’l Historic Trail (Apr. 7)
10. Lewis & Clark Nat’l Historic Trail, Iowa (Apr. 7)
11. Cedar Creek & Belle Grove NHP, Shenandoah Valley, VA (May 10)
12. Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens, Washington, D.C. (May 23)
13. National Capital Parks – East, Presidential Inauguration (Jan 2009).
14. Oxon Cove Park, Underground RR Freedom Network (May 23)
15. Potomac Heritage NST, Oxon Hill, MD (May 23)
16. Oxon Cove Park, Oxon Hill, MD (May 23)
17. Gettysburg NMP, Gettysburg, PA (Jul 15)
18. Chickasaw NRA, Sulphur, OK (Aug 14)
19. Wolf Trap NP for the Performing Arts, Vienna, VA (Aug 21)

Sheryl got some of the trail stamps last year when she helped me move out to Utah, but she stuck to her self-imposed rule of not counting stamps that her and Eric don’t get together. This year, when they helped me move back, they got the stamps, again. They’ll count for them, but not for me or Mom.

I went to Fossil Butte last year, but Mom’s visit will count.

I got the Presidential Inauguration stamp because it was limited edition, but I obviously didn’t attend.

The April 7 trail stamps in Council Bluffs Iowa are some of the same ones that we got at trail HQ in Salt Lake City, but the latter are gold-colored and in the Mountain Region, while the Iowa ones are red-colored.

I’m only at 13, with two-thirds of the year done.

Chickasaw National Recreation Area
Oklahoma

At Chickasaw National Recreation Area the power of place is evident: cool creeks flowing over travertine terraces; the silhouette of a great blue heron perched on the shore of the Lake of the Arbuckles; families reuniting in historic campgrounds; locals filling jugs with mineral water; and the idyllic escape so many discover here.

Lying midway between Oklahoma City and Dallas in part of the country that many stereotype as rather unspectacular subprairie scenery, Chickasaw is a conveniently located contrast. Situated just east of Interstate 35 as it transects south-central Oklahoma at the juncture of the southern Osage Plains and the ancient, worn remnants of the Arbuckle Mountains, Chickasaw entertains more than one million visitors each year.

Water defines the park. For over a century, people have come here to enjoy the refreshing, tranquil beauty of this simple wooded valley and its many springs and streams. The reputed healing power of its mineral waters prompted the park’s creation in 1902 as the Sulphur Springs Reservation. The United States Government purchased the land for the new park from the Chickasaw and Choctaw Nations at $20 per acre; making it the first and only national park established at an Indian Tribe’s request. In 1906, the reservation became the nation’s seventh national park, Platt National Park.

Visitors flocked to the new park, and many made annual visits a family tradition. In 1908 over 100,000 visitors were counted at Bromide Spring. To conserve the spring water, only one gallon of water per person per day was allowed without a physician’s prescription.

Between 1933 and 1940, Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) members rebuilt Platt National Park. Rustic buildings, swimming holes, and picnic areas, remain today as a testament to their work. Since then, millions have enjoyed the landscape left behind by the CCC by swimming at Little Niagara, camping at the Cold Springs Campground, or tasting the water at Pavilion Springs.

After 70 years as the smallest national park, Platt National Park was combined with the Arbuckle Recreation Area to create Chickasaw National Recreation Area. The name of the park honors the vision of the Chickasaw Nation. In many respects the modern park is really two parks in one – the Platt Historic District and the Lake of the Arbuckles.

The Lake of the Arbuckles, built in the mid-1960s, offers fun on the water. It’s one of the best fishing lakes in Oklahoma for catfish, perch, bass, and crappie. The Buckhorn and Point campgrounds offer traditional and utility camping sites. Nearby boat ramps provide easy access to the water’s edge, and in areas surrounding the lake some hunting is allowed. In the autumn, the creek-side trails of the Platt Historic District offer an outstanding opportunity to slow down, and exchange the breathtaking vistas and dramatic phenomena of larger national parks, and in their stead delight in quiet, pleasant vignettes of nature’s ageless ways. Come visit — click www.nps.gov/chic/, or call (580) 622-7234.

However, to operate a snowmobile in Yellowstone, on Federal public land, you are supposed to be licensed, from what I remember reading. Talking to some people who have gone up to West Yellowstone for snowmobiling, it sounds like you can…oops, wander on to park land because it’s not well marked if you really want to.

I’m not into that. Anyhow, now that I’m back in Virginia, I’m not sure how I would get a license in Virginia that would qualify to operate a snowmobile (probably via an ATV safety course), so maybe it’d be best to find an alternative for visiting Yellowstone in the winter. There’s a nice set of vacation packages offered by Xanterra Parks & Resorts that just sound like fun. Check these out (winter 2009 prices):

Nordic Heaven at Old Faithful Snow Lodge: includes snowcoach transportation, at least 2 nights lodging, breakfast each day of stay per person, 1 welcome gift per person, 1 ski rental per person per day, unlimited ski drops per person and 1 snow card (discount card) per person which is good for additional 10% discounts on certain gift shop items, additional meals (except designated special events) and any equipment rental. Starts at $339.00 per person double occupancy, $489.00 single occupancy.

Guided Snowmo-Deal at Old Faithful Snow Lodge: includes at least 2 nights lodging, breakfast each day of stay per person, 1 welcome gift per person, 1 snow card per person discount card) per person which is good for additional 10% discounts on certain gift shop items, additional meals (except designated special events), any equipment rental and one guided snowmobile tour to either the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone or Mammoth (snowmobile clothing included in the package). Starts at $389.00 per person double occupancy, $639.00 single occupancy with snowcoach transportation to Snow Lodge.

There are equivalent packages for Mammoth Lodge, and winter packages that split time between the two. It could be really neat. I really need to find someone to do this with.

For the muffin stamp afficionado, the Albright Visitor Center in Mammoth is open year-round, and the Old Faithful Visitor Center has winter hours, too. My guess is that a snowcoach day tour is likely to only give you the opportunity for the Old Faithful stamp unless you do a more elaborate package tour.

Here I thought there’d be other years. Should have done it when I had the chance. Some day I’ll go back, though.

Anyhow, I have always wanted to see this NBP because of all the descriptions of the bloody, protracted hand-to-hand fighting that occurred at the Bloody Angle on May 12th. It’s just one of those things that is hard to imagine. 20 hours! I wanted to see the battlefield for myself in order to try and picture it.

Unfortunately, I can’t provide any photos to help you picture it. My camera batteries were low and my spares had not been charged. The first (and last) photo I took was of this plaque:

To imagine that small arms fire could bring down a 22-inch oak tree might tell all you need to know about the intensity of this battle without other photographs.

…and then my batteries died.

It is an amazing battlefield. On the Confederate lines, can you imagine seeing 20,000 Union troops of the 2nd Corps emerge out of the woods just a few hundred yards in front of you in the early morning mist?

Hiking over to the treeline, can you imagine walking out of the woods that May 12th morning and looking across the terrain and slightly upwards at the Confederate breastworks, bristling with men and cannon?

Casualties were tremendous; regiments were wrecked and yet there is a paucity of monuments at the site. Personally, I expected dozens clustered right there. There are good and bad consequences to that, but that’s a discussion for another post.

The Filene Center about 90 minutes before showtime.

Playing the Filene Center at Wolf Trap National Park for the Performing Arts has become almost a summertime tradition. They say they’ve performed there either as guest or headliner since 1996.

Great Big Sea in concert

The Ranger Station is just off to the left, outside of the main gate. It is open before the show and remains open throughout the concert. The passport stamp is located just inside, next to the guest book.

We had lawn seating and endured three heavy downpours. I feel like I definitely earned this stamp, and it was worth it.

The nature center spans the spring fed Travertine Creek.

After getting the stamp, we undertook the 1-mile walk to two freshwater springs: Buffalo and Antelope Springs.

Travertine Creek crossing

Antelope Springs is impressive because you follow the stream to its source at the end of the trail and find yourself watching the water gush out from under the rock. I expected a trickle, but this was really flowing.

The cool, clear water emerges from underneath the rock.

Buffalo Springs is slightly more picturesque because of the structure the CCC built around it. We paused to dip our feet in the water and the kids were collecting pebbles to throw into the water.

Water bubbles up from underground into this pool, causing the ripples.

In his excitement to get poolside, poor little Noah Powell tried to take the shortcut by stepping down from the top rim onto the bench. He misjudged the 2-foot “step” and the further than anticipated drop sent him headfirst the rest of the way. The sickening thud sent my heart into my stomach. Dad picked him up and we watched the bump on his forehead swell to the size of a golf ball in seconds. It worked to our advantage that the spring water is very chilly and Justin smartly soaked a sock and applied it to the contusion, which brought down the swelling pretty quickly. In the picture, the contours of that nasty bruise are quite obvious and it’s only half the size it had been.

The little warrior is a bit sad that we're leaving Buffalo Springs, since he was just starting to have fun after taking a nasty fall.

After Noah’s wailing died down to some choked sobs, I was amazed that Dad’s simple question, “Do you want to throw some pebbles in the pool?” could get Noah back on his feet, running, smiling and playing. I remained traumatized. What cost, this muffin stamp?

Then, on the way back, their straggling 6-yr old, Lexi, managed to step on a baby snake that was either crossing the path after the rest of us had passed or that we had failed to notice. Mom saw it wiggling away in the underbrush afterward, so it wasn’t a ploy by the one constantly complaining of the long walk to be carried, after all. It met the desired end, though, because she was carried the rest of the way after that.

We tried to put it all behind us by taking a refreshing dip in one of the spring-fed swimming holes. In our case, we chose the popular Little Niagara swim area. Brrrrr, cold! At least in comparison to the 90+ degree air temperature. I could tolerate it well enough after taking a dunk. I found a spot about 5′ 6″ deep and the kids, including Noah, took turns jumping into my arms. Nevertheless, it doesn’t sound like it will draw the family away from the warm waters of the community pool at any time in the future.

The cold waters of Little Niagara

I’d like to check out some of the mineral spring hiking trails some day. This visit had come to close, and we were all worn down by the increasingly restless kids.

Glad I checked it out? Yes.

Will I be recreating with the Powells there during a future visit? Doubtful.

The cyclorama auditorium is visible above the trees. The black-eyed susans were in full force.

We went from there to the Pennsylvania Monument. We quickly found the panel next to the clearly visible 62nd Infantry. The pattern of names matched the image in Gail’s old picture.

Returning to the Pennsylvania Memorial 68 years later to find the name she was pointing at.

No McAfee.

Mom seemed to agree that the image of the plaque in the photo matched well with the plaque we were standing in front of. So, who was Gail’s father holding her up to point at? “It looks like you’re pointing right here on the plaque, but there’s no McAfee. Just a guy named Hurlbert.”

“That’s my mother’s maiden name, but my great-grandfather was McAfee,” but there was no Pvt. William McAfee in the 61st Pennsylvania.

Mom and I looked at each other. We had a hunch that she was pointing at her maternal great-grandfather’s name in the photo, but she couldn’t now grasp that she had been pointing to a different ancestor on that day 68 years ago.  She had mentioned that her mother’s side had also fought in the Civil War, so that’s the conclusion that Mom and I drew.

Still, that left the question of William McAfee. So, I started examining the other plaques.

We discover a William McAfee on the Knap's Battery plaque

Lo and behold! Knap’s Battery of Pennsylvania Lt. Artillery had a Pvt. William McAfee. Later on, we possibly found his brother in the 29th Penna. Infantry.

Knap's Battery Monument on Culp's Hill

Furthermore, what made it interesting, was that Knap’s Battery was eventually on Culp’s Hill, where it was responsible for dueling with the Confederate Artillery on Benner’s Hill. That just happens to be the place where our ancestor, Bowling Mitchell, was during the battle (the subject of our previous trip to Gettysburg, in fact), serving as a private with the Amherst Artillery.

Benner Hill as viewed from the tower on Culp's Hill. Knaps' Battery was firing on Confederate batteries located here (you can just make out the black cannon marking their position). The Amherst Artillery was just across the road in that small square clearing.

How’s that for history coming alive? All-in-all, I thought it was a fun and rewarding day.